Dankzij de Marco Pierre Whites, Gordon Ramsays en David Changs in deze wereld zijn chefs van anonieme koks verworden tot de nieuwe rocksterren. Gelukkig gebruiken ze steeds vaker hun platform om naast spectaculaire gerechten ook een meer duurzame manier van eten op de kaart te zetten. Ook in het YFM-netwerk spreken we jonge gepassioneerde koks en cateraars. Ontmoet deze keer Tirion Keatinge die speciaal met YFM zijn knolselderijtaart-recept deelt.
MEET TIRION KEATINGE
I am a chef at The Scandinavian Embassy – a restaurant and specialty coffee bar in Amsterdam serving Scandinavian-style food, and specializing in coffee-food pairings. My work as a chef goes beyond the kitchen and the cooking itself. I also have a background in farming and forestry and my priority is to produce delicious food that gives people a genuine sense of pleasure, whilst supporting diverse ecosystems, sustainable farming practices, varied processes and a generally healthy food system. I draw on flavour combinations and techniques from all over the world, I find it impossible not to – the more inspiration the better. But this comes together around ingredients that are ‘here and now’. I work with seasons, location, and the needs of producers to create dishes, dealing with questions of what sustainable farming and biodiversity means for healthy, delicious food, and vice versa. In my opinion, the two can strongly support each other – we just need to be creative!
THE RECIPE: CELERIAC, RYE AND SAGE TART
This vegetarian tart uses a relatively humble product – the celeriac – as the central ingredient. It has a range of influences but is nevertheless strongly seasonal and primarily uses ingredients that can be grown in the Netherlands. The pastry element is undeniably influenced by recent trips to Paris, and the rye an iconically ‘Scandinavian’ grain (which can also play a strong role in supporting soil health on farms). Seasonality and a sense of using what ingredients grow around us is reflected in with the hazelnuts and apples – both of which thrive in the Netherlands and northern Europe in autumn. And finally, the use of spices and herbs – particularly cumin – is a nod to the diversity of possibilities that are now available to us, and how we can incorporate them into our own cuisine in interesting ways.
1 large celeriac
2 apples (Elstar work fine, but you can also use cooking apples for a less sweet outcome. Brabant Bellefleur would be a good option too)
Teaspoon cumin (ground)
3-4 sprigs dry or fresh sage
250ml good quality vegetable stock
Rapeseed (Canola) oil
Salt & Pepper
150g cold butter, cut into 0.5cm cubes
175g rye flour
175g plain flour (wholemeal also works)
1 large pinch salt
1 egg yolk
Wash and roughly chop celeriac (approx. 1/2cm chunks). Add to a baking dish with sage (including the stalks), cumin and seasoning. Rub with oil, add stock and bake in the oven for approximately 40 minutes (or until cooked through, but still with a little crunch).
Mix the flour, salt and cold butter cubes. Incorporate butter by ‘rubbing in’ (see video), until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
Add egg yolk and a spoonful of cold water at a time. Only add enough water to bring dough together into a cohesive ball and so that the edges of the bowl are clean.
Wrap the ball in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes (it will also last up to two days in the fridge).
Remove apple cores and dice. Set aside.
Lightly coat a baking tin of approximately 20x3cm with oil.
On a well-floured surface, roll out dough to approximately 0.25 cm thickness (enough to cover baking tray comfortably). Place the pastry inside the tray, carefully forming it to the corners, and run a knife around the rim to cut off any excess (wrap this up and save it in the fridge for another use).
Pre-bake pie crust until half-baked. You can use baking marbles to stop it warping, or if you don’t have them, puncture the base a few times with a fork.
Once half baked (becoming firm, but not yet browned), remove from the oven. Spread roasted celeriac evenly in the tart shell (all the liquid should have been absorbed, so you shouldn’t be tipping water into the tart). Sprinkle apple evenly across the top, followed by the chopped hazelnuts.
Return to the oven until the top is slightly crispy and the pie crust has turned golden brown.
Remove from the oven and serve while warm. This hearty sweet-savoury tart goes particularly well with a fresh, acidic salad.
// Tekst&Foto: Tirion Keatinge
// Beeld: YFM